Lumens vs Watts: How to Actually Choose the Right Bulb
Stop buying bulbs by watts. Here's the simple guide to understanding lumens, color temperature, and CRI for perfect lighting.
Why Watts Don't Matter Anymore
For decades, we bought bulbs by wattage — 60W, 75W, 100W. But watts measure energy consumed, not light output. A 10W LED produces the same light as a 60W incandescent. Buying by watts today means overpaying for energy.
Lumens: The Number That Matters
Lumens measure actual brightness. Here's the conversion from old-school watts:
- 450 lumens = 40W incandescent equivalent
- 800 lumens = 60W equivalent (most common)
- 1,100 lumens = 75W equivalent
- 1,600 lumens = 100W equivalent
For most rooms, 800 lumens per bulb is the sweet spot.
Color Temperature (Kelvin)
Color temperature determines whether light feels warm or cool:
- 2700K — Warm white. Cozy, relaxing. Best for bedrooms and living rooms.
- 3000K — Soft white. Slightly brighter feel. Good for kitchens and bathrooms.
- 4000K — Cool white. Energizing. Great for offices and workspaces.
- 5000-6500K — Daylight. Very bright and blue-ish. Best for garages, task lighting.
Pro tip: Most people prefer 2700K-3000K for general home use. Going above 4000K in living spaces can feel clinical.
CRI: The Secret Third Metric
Color Rendering Index (CRI) measures how accurately a bulb shows colors. Scale of 0-100.
- CRI 80+: Acceptable for most rooms
- CRI 90+: Colors look vibrant and natural. Worth it for kitchens, bathrooms, and anywhere you care about appearance
- CRI 95+: Professional quality. Used in art studios and retail
Most budget LEDs are CRI 80. Spending $1-2 more per bulb to get CRI 90+ makes a noticeable difference.
Quick Buying Checklist
- Choose lumens based on room size (800 for most rooms)
- Pick color temperature by room function (2700K relaxing, 4000K working)
- Aim for CRI 90+ in rooms you spend time in
- Check the bulb fits your fixture (A19, BR30, GU10, etc.)